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Zenith – El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones celebrating 150 years

In 1969, just a few months before humankind’s first steps on the moon, a Zenith replica watch-maker presented El Primero the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. That same year, one of the world’s best-known rock bands reached the height of its fame. To celebrate this pivotal date, Zenith is launching a new version of the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones.

ZENITH, ALWAYS ONE IDEA AHEAD.

In 1865, the small Swiss village of Le Locle in the Neuchâtel mountains was home to 3,000 farmers. When winter came, they made a living by exercising various watchmaking trades, each in their own separate way. Georges Favre-Jacot, a youthful entrepreneur barely 22 years of age, had the brilliant idea of bringing these talents under one roof in order to produce watches in their entirety and facilitate the relevant processes. Within just a few years, he thereby built one of the first industrial watch Manufactures in the modern sense of the term. Favre-Jacot was an innovative visionary who revolutionised the manner of taming time and instilled in his employees an enterprising spirit that has become a Zenith tradition. This was the very spirit that would inspire the Manufacture Zenith over the subsequent century and half to register 300 patents, create more than 600 movement variations and win 2,333 prizes in the field of chronometry: an absolute record. It was also this spirit that led in 1969 to the emergence of the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement, beating at the exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour: the El Primero chronograph calibre, an acknowledged benchmark to this day. This movement has since given rise to an entire collection and powers a number of timepieces from the Manufacture. Zenith naturally wished to celebrate its friendship with rock’n’roll legends – The Rolling Stones – by crafting a modern watchmaking legend. It has done so by creating a new version of the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to the Rolling Stones, this time issued in a 1,000-piece limited edition.

WHEN THE STARS ALIGN…

The brand with the guiding star, which created the El Primero movement in 1969, and the stars of English rock music, who require no further introduction, have become partners. After all, would it not be fair to say that the watch company and the rockers share the same values of pleasure, daring and authenticity – since 1865 in the case of Zenith and since 1962 for The Rolling Stones? These five young musicians had exactly what it took to create a legendary group, starting with talent. Brian Jones, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Billy Wyman and Charlie Watts rapidly asserted the power of an inimitable style. The era also proved eminently propitious, since the early 1960s was the period when England was discovering pop music and rock’n’roll. The latter genre struck a strong contrast with the pop music of their rivals The Beatles. Finally, the originality of their compositions also played a key role, as epitomised in I can’t get no (satisfaction) , released in 1965, and Angie , in 1973. The legend was in the making and their success was planet-wide. More than 50 years later, it is still going strong. Indeed, The Rolling Stones will soon be going on a tour that will take them to 15 cities in North America, 14 of which will be in the United States. The tour will open in San Diego on May 24th and close in Quebec with a final concert on July 15th.

A VERY ROCK ‘N ROLL WATCH

As a truly worthy heir to the model that revolutionised the watch industry more than 40 years ago, the El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones reprises its codes while introducing a very dark, contemporary, rock-style look. This understated masculine watch is remarkable in every way. Firstly, by its DLC-coated titanium case fitted with pierced lugs, a design inspired by another icon from the same lineage: the El Primero Lightweight. It also features an automatic El Primero 4061 chronograph movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute): a novel feature that will apply to all Open models. This signature concept involving a dial opening at 11 o’clock revealing the regulating organ of the Swiss Rolex replica watches was born in 2003. It is specific to the El Primero line and gave rise to an entirely redesigned movement construction and a displacement of the balance and spring to the periphery of the calibre. The Rolling Stones model is also remarkable in terms of the avant-garde material used for the lever and escape-wheel: silicon. This material is harder and lighter than steel, as well as significantly more wear-resistant and less energy-hungry due to its low friction coefficient. It is also anti-magnetic and does away with lubrication-related problems. The hands echo the shape of the fretboard on the Fender Telecaster guitar played by Keith Richards, one of the pillars of the group. In addition, the snailed finish of the minute circle, as well as on the two 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o’clock, are hollowed out like a dish, evoking the grooves on vinyl records and thereby contributing to the overall aesthetic coherence of this model. Nonetheless, this El Primero dedicated to the Rolling Stones is still very much a chronograph, since its inner bezel ring features a transfer bearing 300 divisions corresponding to fifths of a second. The central seconds hand is fitted with a star-shaped counterpoise. In the only touch of colour, its tip (like that of the counter hands and the small seconds trident at 9 o’clock) is red to ensure enhanced readability.

The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones also bears the other signature of this line: a slender bezel ensuring a generous dial opening and a box-style, slightly domed crystal enabling the light to pour in from the side and thus further enhance legibility. Fitted with a black PVD-coated triple folding clasp, the strap is composed of a rubber ‘spine’ featuring a Barenia leather insert. It is personalised in the ‘colours’ of the group and its native country, with the tongue logo and the British flag (Union Jack) tone-on-tone heat-embossed on the leather.

The transparent sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back provides a view of the oscillating weight engraved with the famous red tongue and “The Rolling Stones Edition” inscription. The presentation box houses an inner box bearing the handwritten logo of the brand and that of Zenith, as well as a main case bearing the red tongue motif on the leather casing. The interior is also red to echo the dominant colour. The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones is a 1,000-piece limited edition.

A BRIEF REMINDER OF THE EL PRIMERO MOVEMENT

January 10th 1969 saw the worldwide launch of Zenith’s integrated automatic chronograph movement. Born of a simple idea that required a full seven years to develop, the El Primero movement was a double world first: the first to provide a chronograph function other than in the form of a module; and also the world’s most accurate movement, with its high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour ensuring tenth-of-a-second precision. The aptly named movement soon became a modern-day haute horlogerie legend. Alongside these outstanding qualities, it displays exceptional resistance to extreme conditions, whether fixed to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 for a flight from Paris to New York, or on the arm of Felix Baumgartner doing a freefall jump from the stratosphere to break the sound barrier.

An exceptional movement in every possible way, El Primero features two other technical characteristics that were particularly brilliant at the time. Its construction is based on a column wheel, the supreme component of the high-quality chronographs invented in the 19th century. This distinctive element interprets the pressure exercised on the pushpiece so as to handle the chronograph start, stop and reset functions. Composed of a ratchet-wheel fitted with several triangular-shaped teeth called columns, the column wheel is machined from a block of steel whose hardness makes it suitably resistant to repeated handling. The second major additional feature of the original movement is its lubrication. The high frequency of the balance-wheel oscillations tended to exercise a strong centrifugal force on the oils used to lubricate the escapement, to such an extent that it disturbed the smooth running of the mechanism. Hence the dry lubrication system featured in this movement.

While it continues to power Zenith timepieces, and not only those of the El Primero line, this movement has constantly evolved over the years to welcome the addition of a variety of horological complications and avant-garde mechanisms that have earned it a number of prizes. To mark the 150th anniversary of the cheap Rolex replica watches brand and celebrate a constant quest for excellence, all El Primero calibres intended for the Open and Tourbillon models will be chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). This independent organisation measures non-assembled movements according to criteria that will thus be added to the already extremely stringent standards applied by Zenith. The oscillating weight of these movements will be engraved with the “Certified Chronometer” inscription.

Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo

Among Panerai’s Luminor Submersible collection of military-style diving Rolex replica watches, the one that most evokes the brand’s Italian navy origins is the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo 47 mm, with its dark, military green dial and bronze case.

Bronze is a material readily associated with sailing, diving, and other nautical pursuits due to its use in vintage yachts and ships. The bronze used in this watch’s case is CuSn8, an alloy of copper and tin in its pure state, which is both structurally strong and highly corrosion-resistant. Over time, the material’s warm tone will develop a patina as it reacts to external agents such as air, humidity, heat and wear, rendering each cheap Panerai replica watches unique to its owner and his or her experiences.

The large case (47 mm in diameter) has the familiar, trademarked Panerai locking-bridge crown protector and is water-resistant to 300 meters. The sapphire exhibition caseback is anchored by a ring of titanium, a material chosen for its non-allergenic properties.

Panerai PAM00507 Luminor Submersible Bronzo - front

What differentiates this Luminor Submersible model from its predecessors is a new feature on the dark green dial, an arc-shaped power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock. The dial also has luminous, applied hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The studded, rotating bronze bezel, with 15-minute scale for timing dives, is designed with a patented system that ensures the ratchet moves precisely from one click to the next.

Panerai PAM00507 Luminor Submersible Bronzo - crown detail

The watch (which Paneristi will likely refer to by its reference number, PAM00507) is powered by Panerai’s automatic Caliber P.9002, produced at the brand’s manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Composed of 237 parts, it has a rotor that swings in both directions to wind two series-connected spring barrels, bestowing upon the Submersible a lengthy three-day power reserve. It also includes a device for zeroing the seconds hand so the wearer can synchronize the top fake Rolex watches with a reference time signal.

Panerai PAM00507 Luminor Submersible Bronzo - caseback

The Panerai Luminor, which comes on a brown, stitched leather strap with a brushed titanium buckle, is limited to 1,000 pieces worldwide, priced (originally) at $13,000. Click below for a video from Panerai that showcases the Bronzo and the other two new Submersible models, in black ceramic and titanium cases.

Escapement Watch Review: The Ball Watch Fireman Storm Chaser Pro

A short while back on my online Omega replica watches magazine Escapement, I reviewed the Ball Watch Fireman Storm Chaser Pro. Released in 2014, this chronograph, with its highly legible display, is attractively priced and exhibits a robust demeanor which makes it an ideal watch for daily wear.

I recall attending a careers lesson at school and being asked about my chosen profession. Aged 15, I proffered several suggestions, including accountant, army officer, policeman and dentist. My fellow students also mentioned similar professions as well as notions of becoming teachers, nurses and doctors.

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Ironically, my career path never followed the path discussed in that cold uninspiring classroom. Indeed, I wonder how many stated ambitions were ever realized. Often individuals remark that my occupation is unusual and seem to struggle with the concept of writing about wristwatches for a living. However, if my job appears unusual to some, then I don’t know what they would think of Dr. Joshua Wurman’s “typical day’s work.”

Dr. Wurman is a meteorologist and has been a brand ambassador for Ball Watch Company since 2008. Dr. Wurman’s specialty is the study of extreme weather. Moreover, he is president of the “Center of Severe Weather Research (CSWR)” and his professional role has seen him develop innovative methods for locating and analyzing tornadoes and hurricanes.

He has been responsible for creating many inventions in the field of meteorology including the “Doppler on Wheels.” The CSWR’s Doppler on Wheels (DOW) network of three equipment-laden trucks are dispatched and positioned near extreme weather. They capture useful data that can be used to warn of similar impending events in the future. Dr. Wurman’s work is said to have contributed to saving many lives.

Dr. Wurman and BALL Watch Company seek to mitigate the impact of extreme conditions. Indeed, the watch company has gained a reputation for its robust watches and its association with Dr. Wurman seems logical.

On hearing the name of this latest watch from Ball, the Fireman Storm Chaser Pro, recently launched at Baselworld 2014, I was expecting to see an armor-plated ensemble that exhibited a tough exterior but lacked any aesthetic beauty. Indeed, my pre-conceived idea was that the best Rolex replica watches would be grotesquely styled in the pursuit of exceptional resilience to impacts and shocks.

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I was, therefore, pleasantly surprised when I was subsequently presented with this tasteful, classically styled bi-compax chronograph. This is a handsome timepiece and, despite its sturdy construction, would prove the ideal complement to both formal and casual attire.

The dial:

Three dial variants are available, in black, gray and white. While all three colors offer excellent readability, my preferred option is the white-dial version, with its unparalleled cleanliness, and this one is the focus of my review.

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The hour and minutes are indicated by silver-colored hands. They are partially openworked near their fulcrums and each features one of the company’s legendary micro gas tubes, which exhibit a green emission in restricted light.

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The black central chronograph seconds hand is very slender and features an orange tip, which incorporates another micro gas tube. This emits a green hue in the dark. At the opposite end to the tip, a counterbalance resides near the fulcrum of the hand, adorned with the brand’s logo.

Applied hour markers confer a tidy, uncluttered appearance to the dial. Each features a micro-gas tube. The hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock emit a vivid yellow hue in darkness while the hour marker at noon exhibits a vivid shade of orange at night. The remaining hours appear green when deprived of natural light.

The day and date are displayed at 3 o’clock and are presented side by side on two separate disks. The black characters used are free of serifs, timeless in design, and simple to read.

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A small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock. To the casual observer, it may resemble a power-reserve indicator; however, this is not the case. The scale depicted is only partial, effectively interfacing with the seconds hand only 25% of the time. Once the wearer is familiar with this aspect, it does not detract or mar owner enjoyment.

The two chronograph counters sit in series, aligned on a north-south axis. The lower subdial incorporates a 12-hour chronograph counter, whereas the upper subdial, located below noon, is a 30-minute chronograph counter. The color scheme and dial layout exhibit a “Yin and Yang” equilibrium which seems to represent the very antithesis of the stormy domain of Dr. Wurman’s world. Each chronograph hand emits a blue emission in the dark.

Adjacent each hour marker, Arabic numerals aid interpretation and, adorning the inner flange, a chapter ring helps interpret split second measurement.

The black bezel is marked with a telemeter scale.

The case:

A quality I have talked about before with Ball Watch Company products is the excellent finish of its stainless steel cases. The company delivers exceptional quality at this price position and shames some costlier offerings from rival brands.

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The case diameter of 42 mm is very wearable and should prove suitable for the vast majority of potential customers. The height of 15.65 mm, while not ultra-thin, is certainly not unduly cumbersome.

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The chronograph pusher at 2 o’clock starts and stops the stopwatch function. It has a smattering of orange detail, judiciously applied to its form. The chronograph pusher at 4 o’clock resets the chronograph and incorporates black detail.

A further area worthy of note is the anti-reflective treatment on the convex sapphire crystal. It is of good quality and grants enhanced legibility. Indeed, “legibility” and “readability” are words I often find myself repeating, but these are certainly virtues this high quality Rolex replica watches possesses.

The exhibition caseback accords a view of the self-winding movement.

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Prospective buyers have a choice of stainless steel bracelet with folding buckle or a calf leather strap presented with a steel pin buckle. The bracelet has a quality feel to its construction, capable of shrugging off minor impacts with little fuss. However, the strap is warmer in appearance and would be my choice. In particular, I appreciate the combination of black calf leather detailed with playful orange stitching. Indeed, the stitching adds interest to the strap and coalesces with the color of the push-piece at 2 o’clock as well as other dial details.

The movement:

The automatic Caliber BALL RR1402 features a simple oscillating mass with minimal adornment.

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Examining the architecture of the movement reveals that  Caliber BALL RR1402 is based on the legendary ETA Valjoux 7750. The reputation of this movement is well known. It is ultra-reliable and has won favor with many watch companies and watch collectors alike. While some purists will argue in favor of fully-integrated chronographs, myself included, there is no escaping its ease of assembly and reliability. Moreover, the simple construction allows the watch to be easily serviced and repaired.

The Ball Watch Fireman Storm Chaser Pro is shock resistant to 5000G and water-resistant to 100 meters.

Closing remarks:

Even though I am highly unlikely to drive towards a storm in my daily working life, I do appreciate a watch that has been made to tolerate extreme conditions. Ball Watch Company has repeatedly shown a talent for innovation with several patents to its name. Many of its inventions confer robustness and function, enhancing wearability. The Ball Watch Fireman Storm Chaser Pro proves to be no exception.

The highly readable display, with its sublime nocturnal legibility, is magnificent. Moreover, the case diameter of 42 mm should have widespread appeal. Indeed, I found this timepiece accorded a very comfortable fit.

This Rolex fake watches sale has an appealing mix of qualities which differentiate it from many of its competitors. It blends handsome good looks with superb shock resistance and is presented in a high-quality case, delivered at a very accessible price.

 Technical Specifications:

  • Model: Ball Watch Fireman Storm Chaser Pro 
  • Reference: CM3090C-L1J-WH
  • Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42 mm; height 15.65 mm; water resistant to 100 meters; sapphire crystal front and caseback
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; day; date; chronograph
  • Movement: RR1402 (based on ETA Valjoux 7750), self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve of 48 hours
  • Strap: Black calf leather strap with steel pin buckle
  • Price: £2,170 (as of 5-17-2014)

5 Things You Should Know About the Audemars Piguet LeBron James Royal Oak Offshore

With the NBA playoffs in full swing, and LeBron James’s Cleveland Cavaliers moving on to the second round, we re-present our feature on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore LeBron James limited edition, launched in fall 2013, which had the design input of James himself. Here are five things to know about the timepiece.

1. It’s not what one usually expects in a star athlete-branded sports watch. “King James’s” Audemars Piguet is not predominantly black; it does not display his current team’s colors or his jersey number; it has no obvious references to his sport (i.e., the baseball counterweight on the seconds hand of Randy Johnson’s Ulysse Nardin or the basketball pattern on James’s teammate Dwyane Wade’s Hublot); and it’s not even overly large (the case is a relatively modest 44 mm in diameter). The color scheme choice of light gray (in certain light, it appears almost off-white) for the dial and alligator strap, combined with rose gold, came from James himself. The Cavs (and former Miami Heat) star is known for being intense off the court but stylish off it, and for the Breitling replica watches bearing his name, he chose to go with a more “off-court” look, a watch he could wear with a tuxedo. “I love the strap,” James states in Audemars Piguet’s release. “We talked a lot about the possibilities and I thought gray would be the perfect color. At first you don’t really think pink gold and gray will work together, but when you match it up with this watch and this style, it’s a perfect combination.”

Audemars Piguet LeBron James Royal Oak Offshore

2. Its got a touch of bling — but just a touch. LeBron not only wanted to go stylish over sporty, but also, unlike some other celebrity-endorsed timepieces, subtle over showy. The chronograph push-piece at 2 o’clock is the only place on this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore watch that is, almost discreetly, set with diamonds. Both push-pieces, as well as the winding crown, are made of black ceramic.

5 Things You Should Know About the Audemars Piguet LeBron James Royal Oak Offshore - chrono pusherLE - side

3. The case combines two rarely combined materials. The Rolex replica watches for sale is still instantly recognizable as a Royal Oak Offshore, with its famous octagonal case and “mega-tapisserie” patterned dial. The case is in 18k rose gold and also features a brushed titanium bezel, with the traditional eight screws, which echoes the gray tones in the dial and strap. The push-piece guards combine rose gold with gray rubber. The sapphire crystal has a glareproof coating. The case is water-resistant to 100 meters. The applied Arabic numerals and hands are also in 18k rose gold.

4. The movement is complicated, highly decorated, and on display. The Royal Oak Offshore LeBron James Limited Edition contains Audemars Piguet’s automatic Caliber 3126/3840, whose functions include a date display (in a window at 3’clock on the dial), small seconds (on a subdial at 12 o’clock) and chronograph (with counters at 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock). The movement is 26 mm in diameter, 7.16 mm thick and consists of 365 parts, including 59 jewels. It has a frequency of 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 55 hours. Its embellishments include circular graining on the mainplate, côtes de Genève on the beveled bridges, and a partially openworked 22k gold rotor with an anthracite galvanic treatment and a raised Audemars Piguet “AP” logo. The movement is visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback that also bears James’s signature, printed in blue.

Audemars Piguet's chronograph Caliber 3126/3840

5. If you’re planning to buy one, you’ll need a tidy sum, and maybe a bit of luck. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore LeBron James limited edition is limited to only 600 pieces worldwide. The price of admission to wear the same cheap Rolex replica watches as the four-time NBA MVP and two-time world champ? That would be $51,500.

LeBron James wearing Audemars Piguet

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